Baile an Chalaidh

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Baile an Chalaidh or Ballincolla is a townland of 148 hectares or 365 acres and in the early part of the 20th century, 199 individual fields were mapped in this townland.

It is in the Electoral Division of Myross, in Civil Parish of Myross and the Roman Catholic Parish of Castlehaven and Myross.

Baile an Chalaidh is bordered by Ardach (Ardagh) and Cluain Cathail (Clontaff) to the west and An Chathair Gheal (Cahergal) and An Sceachánach (Skahanagh) to the south

OpenStreetmap contributors, with input from the Castlehaven & Myross History Society, have created a detailed townland map including all its minor placenames. Zoom in for further detail.

Etymology

Baile an Chalaidh was interpreted by Bruno O'Donoghue to mean (the) place (of) the ferry or pier (as a ferry used to run from here to Glandore). All of the local townlands was anglicised by the Ordnance Survey in about 1842. The OS settled on Ballincolla but earlier attempts included Ballynycolly and Ballincala in the 1600's. There were a number of variations of the spelling used at that time but they were all very close to the current form

There are also three sub-townlands recorded in Ballincolla and these include

Poll a' Mhóin (this can be interpreted as the bog/turf hole and, in some references, is listed as Poll na Móna)
Spuaic (this is the high point in the townland and can be interpreted as a peak or pinnacle)
Coill Bheag / Keelbeg (this was interpreted by Bruno O'Donoghue as the small wood)

Part of Union Hall village is also in this townland. The official name of the village is Bréan Tráigh which can be interpreted as the smelly strand. It is thought that it was named after the number of corpses that were allowed to rot there after a battle in the area circa 400 years ago. It is also said that another name for the village was Tráigh a Bhróin (strand of sadness/laments) which also lends credence to this theory. We are not aware of the battle that this refers to.

History

Ballincolla Village: This is no longer to be seen. Situated close to Ballincolla Lake many of its inhabitants either died of hunger and disease or were evicted during the Famine. Others were reputed to have emigrated to Australia.

Look Out House: An architect-designed building which was erected along with the new coastguard station 0.5 km away in the same townland. Erected in 1895 it was almost completely intact apart from missing doors and windows up to around 2000. A coastguard on duty at the Lookout on May 7th 1915 spotted the Lusitania steaming eastwards outside the Islands off the coast and at the same time he spotted a submarine near Adam Island at the mouth of Glandore Harbour. He goes on to say that “I kept the submarine under observation until it went perhaps a thousand yards. It was going so quickly that it took scarcely two minutes. I knew at once that the submarine was on the track of the Lusitania. From the point of Adam where I first spotted it, to Duluk (Doolic) Rock is about four and half miles. It struck me that her intention was to get in line of the Lusitania somewhere off Clonakilty Bay. The submarine and the Lusitania were what you might say following two sides of a triangle, meeting at the apex. There was no patrol or battleship of any kind visible in the water at the time. I immediately rushed down and reported the matter to the chief officer. I could see no smoke out of three of the four funnels of the Lusitania. I said to one of the men at the time that we would be likely to hear some strange news in the morning. Little any of us thought it could be so dreadful.”

Coast Guard Station: An architect designed building erected along with the Look Out House 0.5 km distant, in the same townland, and overlooking Union Hall pier. It was erected in 1895 and consisted of seven houses. In August 1922 on hearing that the National Army under the command of Major General Emmet Dalton were hoping to land in Union Hall, the Anti-Treaty forces who had taken over the area destroyed the pier in two places in order to prevent a landing. They then retreated to the Coast Guard Station to await the arrival of the boats. However the vessels, in a high tide, managed to come close to the shore and the troops disembarked in small crafts. The first two crafts came under fire from the irregulars but the troops successfully reached positions ashore and replied to the fire. In a very short while, the Anti-Treaty forces were on the run but, before leaving, they set the Station houses alight.

Barking Pans: There were at least four Barking Pans used by fishermen in the Keelbeg area. Two were on the shoreline under the road and the other two were above the road, one of these being a rather makeshift one. The purpose of barking fishing nets was to preserve them during their life at sea. It was carried out until the introduction of synthetic fibre nets in the 1950’s. The nets were placed in large cauldrons, or iron pots (pans), which were filled with water and the bark substance (or cutch as it was known). A fire heated the container from underneath. The nets were immersed in the hot preservative tarry substance for a few minutes and then spread out on the surrounding fences and walls to dry. This operation was done at the start of the summer and regularly every few weeks during the fishing season.

Baking Pans

Pier: The first Government-funded pier was built in the 1880's. It replaced the private pier, reputed to be owned by the Cullinane family, which was on the point of collapse. Like all piers along the coast (including Glandore Pier which was the first government-funded pier dating back to the 1830's), it has had to be repaired many times over the years.

Famine: The book, The Famine Story" lists the men from this townland that were working on the Myross Relief Scheme on 28th August 1846 during the Great Famine. These were public works that involved hard labour for a low wage for a workforce that were already weak and starving. The names were as follows: Patrick Regan, Michael Canty, John Canty, Pat Driscoll In addition, workers from Union Hall were listed separately. As this was one of the three townlands in which Union Hall stands, it was possible that some of the following also lived in this townland: Bryan Sweeny, James Sweeny, Michael Hurley, Daniel Murphy, Daniel Burke, John Kelly, Timothy Burke, Michael Donovan, Jer Connor, Michael Hennessy, Timothy Dawly, John Dwire, John Donoghue, Daniel Donovan Tragh, Florence Driscoll, John Dwyer, Pat Minihane

Housing

As part of Griffiths Valuation in 1852, a survey of house quality was carried out to calculate what rates were due by each household. These were issued in the form of house books (Pg 1, Pg 2, Pg 3, Pg 4, Pg 5, Pg 6) and a guide on how to interpret these can be seen here. These show that 51 of the 57 occupied houses in the townland at this time were Class 1. This means that they were slated dwelling houses built with stone or brick and lime mortar. Fourteen of these were described as old (more than 25 years) with nine being in repair and five being out of repair. The other 37 class 1 houses were described as medium (not old) with nine being described as in sound order and good repair, eight being slightly decayed, but in good repair while the other twenty are deteriorated by age and not in perfect repair. The remaining six houses were class 3 which means that they were thatched houses with stone walls with mud or puddle mortar. All were described as old (more than 25 years) while the condition of one was described as in repair, with three being out of repair and the other two are dilapidated and scarcely habitable. All of the class 3 houses in the townland are between 4 foot 6 inches (!) and 8 foot tall which indicates that they were single storey at this time. The class 1 houses vary between 5 feet 6 inches and 31 feet tall.

By the 1901 census, there are just 11 occupied houses and all have walls of stone, brick or concrete. Eight have roofs of slate, iron or tiles while the other three are still thatched. Ten houses have two, three or four rooms with two having just one window in front while another six have two (which indicate that they are probably still single storey at this time) and two more have four windows in front . The remaining house in the townland has five or six rooms with five windows in front.

When we advance to the 1911 census there is a slight increase to 12 occupied houses and, not surprisingly, all have walls of stone, brick or concrete. Ten now have roofs of slate, iron or tiles while two are still thatched. One house is listed as having just one room with one window in front while another eight have two, three or four rooms with one having just one window in front and another three have two (which indicate that they are probably still single storey at this time) while four more have four windows in front. Two houses have five or six rooms with five windows in front while the remaining house in the townland has ten, eleven or twelve rooms with four windows in front.

Places of Interest

There are a number of significant places in this townland including Ballincolla Lake and the deserted Ballincolla village.

Union Hall: Part of Union Hall Village and its pier are in this townland.

Harbour: This townland adjoins Glandore Harbour

Lake: There is a lake called Ballincolla Lake in this townland.

Ballincolla House: This was the residence of Robert Hungerford

Woodview House: This was built in 1830 by Colonel Limrick. There was a Medical Dispensary on the east side which was used as a hospital/surgery

Unionhall House: This was built in 1803 by Colonel W. Limrick who named it after the Act of Union. He built the house with his share of the £1m prize money after the Battle of Seringapatam in 1799 when he served under the Duke of Wellington. The village got its name from this house name. It was the residence of Philip Somerville. Colonel Spaight and his wife, Lucy (née Limrick), were the last residents before the house was burned down by the IRA during the War of Independence after Spaight claimed £3,000 when the barracks in Leap was destroyed. A modern house stands on this site today but some of the original out-buildings still remain. The pillars of the old house can still be seen.

Clare Mount: This was the residence of James O’Donovan.

Coastguard Station: This was located in this townland and was burned down by the Anti-Treaty forces in the 1920s

Coastguard Station Ruins of Coastguard houses

Soup Kitchen: There was a Soup Kitchen in the location where the post office is now. This was used to feed the poor during the Famine

Lios: There were three ringforts (liosanna) in this townland. A ringfort is a circular fortified settlement that were mainly built during the Bronze age up to about the year 1000.

Lime Kiln: There is a limestone kiln in this townland which was used to make stone and cement.

Béal a Mhaide Cross: This crossroads intersects three townlands, Ballincolla, Cahergal and Skahanagh. According to James Burke B.L., the name Bealavaddy is mentioned in old grants. Local people say that the old name was Baile Mhíle Mhaide (the townland of the thousand sticks). Burke continues that this may be so but it had assumed the name Bealavaddy in the first decade of the 17th century. There is another version that says that the old name was Béal an Mhaide or Béal an Bhaile which could mean the Mouth of the Ford of the Sticks or the Mouth of the Town.

Béal a Mhaide Cross

RIC Barracks: This was located on the site where The Fish Shop stands today. It was burnt down during the War of Independence

Two of the ringforts mentioned above as well as the lime kiln are mapped on the Historic Environment Viewer . It also mentions two enclosures and a souterrain

Interesting Placenames

There is a lane on the border between Clontaff and Ballincolla which is known as Strawberry Lane (or The Lane). According to Lankford, it got its name as the orchard in Colonel Spaight's ground which had lots of fruit, including strawberries, which grew just over the wall. It reputedly got its name as the children would take a strawberry whenever they passed. However this sounds strange as this wall is about ten foot tall.

There is a wood in the north-east corner of the townland known as Cook's Wood. This is on the grounds of Ballincolla House and was said to have got its name as it was on a Mr. Cook's land

There is a rock off Ballincolla known as Warehorna (Named after ship which sunk there) and a point known as Long Point

What is Poll a' Mhóin (hole of the turf) and Poll na Slinne (the rock in this townland is slatey)

Coosaneigh is a cove in this townland. People would swim and bathe here in the past. It may come from Cuas an Fhia which would mean the deer's cove - it was said that a deer jumped across it once.

Other old field names in this townland have been captured as follows: The Wire Field, The Shed Field, The Sheep Field, Fort Field, Shamrock Field (according to Lankford it was named because shamrock was grown there), Silage Field, The Orchard Field, The Lane Field, The Horse Field, The Stall Field, Cashel, The Tunnel Field (it is said that there is a tunnel going from here to Carrigillihy), Páirc na nGabhar (field of the goats), Gairdín an tSeanbhaile (garden of the old homestead), Páirc an Áth (field of the faction fight or ford)

If you want to see the actual locations of any of these, go to detailed townland map on Open Street Maps. If you know any other field names or place names in this townland (or if you need to correct any or give further background information), please contact us at [email protected]

Folklore

A local rhyme which was linked to the burning of Unionhall House reads as follows:

Can anybody tell me where did Spaight's piano go?

Maybe up to Cullenagh or down to Barryroe

Can anybody tell me where did Spaight's piano go?

After that, Spaight's piano was advertised at many auctions. This would draw a bigger crowd to the auction but the piano never turned up!

Families and Notable Residents

The Tithe Applotment books of 1829 list the following family names:

North Ballincolla: Limrick, Cushin, Lyster , Minihane, Walsh, Dawly (Daly), Twohig, Wholey, Lee,

South Ballincolla: Vaughan, Blackburn, Blackburn, Buckley, Donovan, Bawn, Cullinane, Croston, Driscoll, Brineen, Dawly, Hayes, Canty, Cullinane, Cullinane.

Griffiths Valuation of 1853 lists the following family names:

Rural: Limrick, Warren, Daly, Connolly, Casey, Blake, Minaghan, Driscoll, Sweeny, Keane, Norsworthy, Sweeny, Toohig, Collins, Gillespie, Owens, Buick, Fitzgerald, Skuse, Limrick, Murray, Hungerford, Collins, Minaghan, Minaghan, Minaghan, Collins, Walsh, McCarthy, Byrne (Burns), Byrne, Kingston, Donovan. There was also a coastguard watch-house and boat

Union Hall Village: Driscoll, Moxly, Waugh, Driscoll, Murphy, Sweeny, Dwyer, Hopkins, Donohoe, Donovan, Vaughan, Limrick (office only), Evans, Vaughan (office only), There was also a police barracks while the Board of Guardians of Skibbereen Union had a dispensary here. There was also an unoccupied corn-store and yard

The Census of Ireland of 1901 lists the following family names: Johnston (with Hungerford (sister), Minihane and Brian (both servants)), White (with Donovan (lodger)), McCarthy (with Driscoll (niece) and Collins (servant)), Minihane, McCullagh, Burns, Casey, Levis (with Bryan and Farrer (both servants)), Burns, McCarthy (with Daley (grandmother) and Brady (niece)), Reynolds (with Webb (sister-in-law and 2 x niece)), Hennessy, Kingston, Walsh, Bray, Minihane (with Donovan (daughter and son-in-law)), Cripps, Minihane, Forrest, Martin, Murray, Skuse (with Driscoll (mother-in-law) and Carbery (niece)), Coghlan (with O'Driscoll (5 x lodger)), McCarthy, Minihane (with Keating (visitor)), McCarthy, O'Leary (with Collins (daughter)), Speight (with Fahy, Danaher, Walsh and Hegarty (all servants)), Vaughan, Regan, Cullinan (with Collins (niece), Regan and Harte (both servants)), Donovan, Limrick (with Scannell and Callighan (both boarders)), Mahony (with Sweeney (sister)), Johnston, Deasy, Gallivan and Stokes (RIC barracks)

The Census of Ireland of 1911 lists the following family names in the rural Ballincolla area: Kingston (with Levis (relative)), Burns, Burns, Crispie (with Gloster (grand-son)), Burns, Hungerford (with Johnston (sister and niece), Hussey De Burgh (sister) and Brien, Jennings and Regan (all servants)), Minihane (with Hickey (daughter and grandson)), McCarthy, Minihane, Minihane, Walsh, McCarthy

Note that Union Hall village is listed separately in the Census of Ireland of 1911 (these were included in the townlands of Ballincolla, Listarkin or Clontaff in the 1901 census and we can't tell which of those townlands they are in this time). This lists the following families: Vaughan, Regan, Coughlan, Minihane, Donovan (with Driscoll (daughter and grand-daughter)), Minihane, McKibben, Mahony, Donovan, Murphy (with Jennings (seamstress)), Hayes, O'Driscoll, Shanahan (with Skinner (boarder)), Cronin (three dressmakers), Browne (with Hennessy (child maid domestic servant)), Burke (with Sullivant (servant)), Cullinan, Crowley, Donovan, Daly, Fuller (with O'Connell and Clarke (both clerks) and McCarthy, Glanton and Mahony (all servants)), Driscoll, Donovan, O'Donovan (with Hallahan (sister-in-law)), Donovan, Donovan, Sweeney, Driscoll, Collins, Hayes (with Lloyd (niece)), Walsh, Kirby, Donovan, Browne, Minihan, Sweeney, Spaight (with Coleman, Foley, Malony and Harrington (all servants)), Donovan, Limrick, Mahony (with Sweeney (step-daughter)), Collins, Sullivan, Donovan (with Hallisey (relative)), O'Hea, Hennessy (with Hourihan (niece)), Donovan, Mahony (with Brady (daughter, son-in-law, grandson and grand-daughter) and Danaher (grand-daughter)), Hayes, Lynch, McCarthy (with Keohane (daughter)), Donovan, Daly, Sweeney, Pierce, Brien, Hickey, Hickey (with Gallagher (grand-daughter and 2 x grandsons) and Moynihan (grandson)), Hayes (with Sullivan (servant)), Donovan, Ryder, Dilworth, Spencer, Goldsmith, Hedges, Glanton (with Brien (grand-aunt)), McCullagh, Murray, Hamilton, White, Hegarty, Keane, Skuse (with Carbery (niece)), White, McCarthy, Minihane, McCarthy, Hickey, O'Leary (with Collins (daughter, grand-daughter and grandson)), Casey, Cullinan (with Collins (2 x niece)), Hickey, Sweeney, Collins (with Sweeney (cousin)), Sweeney, Callaghan (with Donovan (servant)), Donovan, Browne, Donovan, Donovan, Mahoney, Donovan, Callaghan, Donovan, Hurley, Burke, Cashman. In addition, a sergeant with the initials, P.C. and constables with the initials, J.S,, J. McC. and J. T. were residing at the R.I.C. barracks (now occupied by The Fish Shop). In total there were 411 residents (including 4 R.I.C. policemen). There were 116 buildings of which 7 were not occupied (courthouse, dispensary, 2 x public house and 3 private dwellings)

Ballincolla

Vaughan, Regan, Spaight (with Coleman, Foley, Malony and Harrington (all servants) ),Donovan Limrick, Mahony( with Sweeney (step-daughter)),, Dilworth, Spencer, Goldsmith, Hedger, Glanton (with Brien (grand-aunt)), McCullagh, Murray, Hamilton, White, Hegarty, Keane, Skuse (with Carbery (niece)), White, McCarthy, Minihane, McCarthy, Hickey, O’ Leary (with Collins (daughter, grand-daughter and grandson)), Casey, Cullinane (with Collins (2 x niece)),, In addition, a sergeant with the initials, P.C. and constables with the initials, J.S,, J. McC. and J. T. were residing at the R.I.C. barracks (Now occupied by Antcar). The dispensary was also in this townland at the corner of Strawberry Lane.

Note: the term 'with' refers to a person or persons of a different family name staying in the house. This may have been an in-law or other relative, a guest, or a farm labourer/housekeeper or domestic servant.

Demographics and Landholding

		*Occupiers	Population	Change	Link to record
1829	Tithe Applotment	25	150 (est)		1829
1841	Census of Ireland	55	320
1851	Census of Ireland	39 (Incl 23 unoccupied)	225
1853	Griffith's Valuation	Village: 16 (Incl 4 unoccupied) Rural: 42 (Incl 8 unoccupied)	72 (est) 210 (est)		Village 1853 Rural1853
1861	Census of Ireland	35 (incl.1 unoccupied)	209
1871	Census of Ireland	37 (incl.2 unoccupied)	201
1881	Census of Ireland	18	113
1891	Census of Ireland	29 (incl.2 unoccupied)	126
1901	Census of Ireland	38 (incl. RIC barracks)	203		1901
1911	Census of Ireland	14 (Incl. 1 unoccupied)	63		1911

*Occupiers generally equate to households having a house and land but may also include households having houses but no land.

Between 1656 and 1658 the Down Survey mapped all areas of the country to track ownership of land after much had been granted to followers of Cromwell after the war of the 1650's. The most prominent proprietors (titulados) of this townland at that time were Hugh McKnogher (possibly McConnor) , Daniell McSkoker, Dermott McKener, Knogher McKener, Randulph McDermodd and Knogher McTeige. This townland was called Ballincallagh or North Ballincallagh at that time.

The proprietor of this townland in 1841 was William Temple French of London and his agent was Michael Beecher of Mallow. It was part-let to John Limrick of Ardmanna, Schull (whose agent was Philip Somerville of Union Hall) and he sub-let it to tenants at will. The balance was let to tenants at will at lump rents.

In 1841 the soil was described as argillaceous (substantial amounts of clay), producing wheat, oats and potatoes. Fuel was described as scarce and the prevailing names were Minahane and Hungerford.